Designing Forever: Inside the Handmade Eternity Ring Process

What is an eternity ring?

Let’s start with the basics! An eternity ring is a type of ring featuring a continuous line of gemstones, typically diamonds, set around the full or part circumference of the band. It symbolises never-ending love and is often given to mark significant anniversaries, milestones, or special occasions. Traditionally, an eternity ring is typically worn on the same finger as the wedding and engagement rings, which is the fourth finger of the left hand (in the UK). It is usually placed either above the wedding and engagement rings or between them, depending on personal preference and the design of the rings.

What is the history of the eternity ring?

The eternity ring dates back to ancient Egypt (2000-1800 BCE), where rings symbolised eternal life and love. The modern eternity ring, featuring a continuous line of gemstones, gained popularity in the mid-20th century, largely due to the marketing campaigns of the diamond company De Beers. Eternity rings are now cherished globally and worn alongside engagement and wedding rings in many cultures.

What metal is best for an eternity ring?

At Erin Cox Jewellery we recommend opting for an eternity ring made in the same metal as your engagement/wedding ring. Different metals and carats of gold are different hardnesses. Opting for the same metal/carat of gold can reduce the wear and tear on your rings as they rub against each other over the years.

How many stones make an eternity ring?

Traditionally eternity rings feature a full eternity or half eternity of stones and there are pros and cons of both. Full eternity rings feature stones all the way around so you’ll always catch some sparkle. In contrast half eternities feature stones on 50% of the circumference of the band. These may be easier to resize and more affordable but rotate on your finger and require adjusting back into place. Here at Erin Cox Jewellery, we like throwing the rule book out of the window, we believe an eternity can be adapted to suit your individual style, budget and story. Who says you can’t have just one, three, five or seven stones…or dare we say no stones at all?! Why not be quirky and hide a diamonds on the inside circumference of the band or add a random sprinkling to the outside? We have some customers who add diamonds individually over the years to mark special moments such as an anniversaries or the birth of a child.

How are the stones set in an eternity rings?

Stones can be set in various ways and styles. At Erin Cox Jewellery we offer channel, flush, micro pave or a carved ‘Tor’ style setting options.

What size of stones fit in an eternity ring?

In general, Erin uses round brilliant cut stones measuring approx 0.8-3mm in diameter (or 0.0025-0.11ct each) in her engagement ring designs. Due to the organic style of Erin’s rings she prefers to use a medley of sizes to match the organic form and ebb and flow of her bands. The depth and width of the band will determine what size stones will fit embedded within the surface.

What gemstones are suitable for eternity rings?

Erin takes commissions for eternity rings featuring diamonds and sapphires (in various colours) and red rubies. We have selected these stones for their durability as they are more suitable for everyday wear. Erin avoids using more brittle or softer gemstones. Emeralds or opals for example, may not withstand being cut small enough to imbed within a band, the setting process, or the inevitable daily wear. We believe in making jewellery to last so recommend & provide top quality gemstones most appropriate for the design.

What style/weight/dimension of band should I opt for?

We often find opting for a band a similar weight and dimension to your engagement or wedding ring leads to a balanced and aesthetically pleasing stack. Although sometimes a wider or chunkier band may compliments better and allow for larger stones too! Below are three rings from our Molten Wedding Ring Collection that are our favourite designs to adapted into eternity rings. They have the width and depth to allow for a medley of stones and look wonderful jazzed up with sparkle!

Pairing traditional engagement / wedding rings with a contemporary eternity ring…does it work?

Erin has had the honour of crafting bespoke contemporary eternity rings to pair with more traditional designs with great success. She has the design skills and experience to successfully create a contemporary piece that can compliment a more traditional or modern design. Trust in us and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed.

Can I commission a shaped eternity ring?

The beauty of offering handcrafted eternity rings is that we can provide shaping options. Whether its a gentle swoop a tight curve or a cut out design, there’s sure to be an option to work perfectly with your stack! Interested in a shaped eternity ring? You may find this blog post ’Erin Cox Jewellery’s Bespoke Shaped Wedding Ring Service’ provides further inspiration.

How much is an eternity ring?

Erin crafts beautiful bespoke eternity rings within her style. She can add a diamond to one of her designs from as little as £71 (this price covers flush setting a 1.25mm diameter round diamond into your design). We offer so many eternity ring variations that we quote on a case by case basis. To give you more of an idea of the fees, adapting one of our ‘Bray’ style bands with a half eternity of white diamonds will cost you approx £600 or £1000 for a full eternity (on top of the cost of the band). Or our larger ‘Otter’ style band (which can house larger diamonds) is likely to cost an additional approx £850 for a half eternity or £1600 for a full eternity (on top of the cost of the band).

Breaking from tradition. Eternity rings like you’ve never seen them before…

With decades of experience designing jewellery Erin has a talent for crafting jewellery that balances tradition with contemporary design. For those who are feeling bold and brave Erin can assist you in designing an eternity which breaks the moulds of tradition. Thinking outside the box and crafting pieces as unique as your love story is what Erin does best! For most Eternity ring designs the Erin Cox Jewellery team will be able to assist you on your bespoke journey. Simply pop in to discuss a bespoke eternity ring. For more unusual designs we recommend that you book a 1 to 1 design appointment with Erin. Please allow lots of time for this process as bespoke appointments can get booked up quickly. Simply contact us to book.

Can Erin remodel old jewellery into an Eternity ring?

Erin specialises in remodelling old gold into bespoke pieces and this extends to eternity rings. Do you have grandmas old wedding ring or a sentimental piece not to your style…we can transform it into one of Erin’s molten bands and adapt it by add new stones to your hearts desire! Learn more about the process of remodelling old gold into one of our molten bands here.

If you already have an eternity ring which you would like to remodel it is worth noting, that remodelling numerous old stones can be less cost effective than buying new. Erin usually avoids remodelling small (>2mm) diamonds/gemstones. They can be difficult to safely remove & reset. From our experience, they are often uncalibrated/not perfectly round and can lack in quality cut or clarity. Inclusion of these types of stones can not only cause technical setting issues but aesthetic ones too. For a reasonable price we can provide alternative excellent quality tiny sapphires, rubies or G VS diamonds to enhance & bring your designs to life! Learn more about our bespoke process here.

How to get the right eternity ring size?

This is something to take your time on getting right! Unfortunately many eternity rings are impossible or very challenging to successfully resize so it is important to get the size just right. Half eternities where there is a un-stone set section may allow for more flexibility in terms of resizing but it is preferential to avoid resizing any ring design with multiple set stones as you don’t want to dislodge or manipulate the high precision settings in the process. We often offer to size check customers prior to the stones being set to ensure it is perfect! Many customer’s will opt for the same size eternity ring as their engagement or wedding ring, however it is worth noting that when you wear more rings they may feel a bit snugger on your finger. Furthermore our knuckles and finger size may increase over time so you may find that a slightly larger size eternity ring could be more comfortable and safe choice long term. That said, as usual, a good wiggle over the knuckle and comfort whilst on the finger is what you are after. You don’t wan’t your precious ring to slip off your hands when they shrink in the cold! For more tips on ring sizing click here.

STEP BY STEP GUIDE: Designing an eternity ring AT ERIN COX JEWELLERY…

  • Choose your metal (9ct white, yellow or red gold, 18ct white yellow or red gold or platinum) or provide your own gold for remodelling.

  • Select band style. We have eight designs in our molten wedding ring collection which you can jazz up with stones (size dependant) or various channel set eternity options.

  • Pick your stones (choose from diamonds, sapphires or rubies) *Colour variations/choices are subject to availability.

  • Choose setting style (channel, flush, micro pave or ‘Tor’ style).

  • Choose number of stones. From one to a full eternity of sparkle or anything in between! Please note, Erin offers select options in terms of the number and size of the stones offered in channel set designs.

  • Choose stone placement. Whilst all the designs will be subject to Erin’s discretion. There are many factors you can choose regarding the placement of your stones. More spread out or closer together? Equidistant, all in a row or a random spinkling? Perpendicular to the center or more hickledy pickledy? Choices, choices!

  • Determine ring size (tips on sizing available here)

  • We will then be able to accurately quote you. If you are happy to proceed we kindly ask for a 50% deposit to place the order. Commissions are usually completed approx 15 weeks after the deposit payment.

Can’t wait that long? Explore our current eternity ring ‘ready to ship’ collection as show below…